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Farm and Barn Conversions

Doing It Right - Avoiding Costly Mistakes
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Typical Challenges of Farm and Barn Conversions

Farm and barn conversions to living accommodations come with very specific challenges. Surveying and contributing to the renovation of many of these buildings, here are the most typical problems that commonly need to be addressed:

  1. The presence of rising damp: old buildings have been built on the damp soil, often with shallow foundations and with no damp proof course (DPC). As a result rising damp is a common problem at most farm or barn conversion projects.
  2. The problem of masonry salts: rising damp brings up salts from the ground, depositing over time into the masonry a significant amount of salts. Most masonry damages are caused by salts, not water. Their effect and mode of operation MUST be well understood to prevent costly renovation mistakes.  
  3. Internal plastering usually in very poor condition: due to the presence of rising damp and rainwater ingress in combination with the ground salts, the condition of the plastering is usually in poor condition, especially along the lower 1 metre section of the walls. Very often the physical damages not only affect the plaster, but also the historic masonry, resulting in crumbling, degradation or completely blown bricks.
  4. Lack of thermal insulation: in agricultural buildings is a common theme, either because of their age or because these buildings have not been designed or built for human habitation. 
  5. External rendering problems: some buildings are rendered which should protect the fabric from rainwater. The rendering, often made from modern cement, degrades and cracks over time, and being non-breathable it also traps moisture. All these factors combined lead to dampness and salts-related damages to the underlying wall fabric.
  6. Water penetration or ingress problems: due to the the poor condition of some of these buildings, water ingress is often a major problem due to neglected, leaking or collapsed roof sections. Once rainwater percolates into the walls, within a few short years can wash out the lime mortar, causing additional structural damages to the walls. The decayed pointing makes these neglected walls subject to wind driven rain penetration and through frost action the decay of the walls is accelerated.  
  7. Need for structural repairs: aging and ongoing dampness problems often result in the severe degradation of some masonry elements needing structural reinforcement or repairs. Doing this in a building-friendly way can sometimes be a challenge.

All these problems often act in combination, causing severe damages to old barns and farm buildings. These problems need to be addressed individually, as they have different remedies. We are going to touch upon all these problems one-by-one below.  

1. Rising Damp

Rising damp is generally believed to be capillary action: the walls acting as a sponge wicking up liquid moisture from the ground making the walls wet. Although this is a good analogy to illustrate the concept of capillarity, real walls behave differently.

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Indirect capillary action can take place through a vapour phase

Most of the time there is very little liquid moisture present in a drained but damp topsoil. When the water table is lower than the base of the walls, moisture can only rise upward as evaporating vapours. The ongoing vapour movement results in moisture accumulation, leading to capillary action inside the capillaries through several stages, as shown below. Thus, most of the time, rising damp develops through indirect capillary action as a result of vapour accumulation - fundamentally being a vapour-driven phenomenon. 

capillary 6 stages sm
Indirect capillary action

Obviously, in limited and specific circumstances direct capillary action can also be present in the walls (e.g. during flooding, extreme rainfall, water-saturated ground, extremely high water table etc.), making the development of rising damp much faster - its speed and rate of severity being determined by the quantity of water inflow.

The whole concept of rising damp is explained in much more detail on the rising damp page.

The reason why rising damp needs attention and must be addressed is the presence of ground salts rising damp draws up from the soil  into the masonry. The real problem is not the water or humidity but the salts accompanying rising damp.  

2. The Problem of Salts

Contrary to common belief it's not moisture that damages the wall fabric or the plastering. It's the salts. High moisture content alone does not damage old buildings. Salts do.

Although water can cause damages to lime plasters through flooding, longstanding water ingress or frost, in the vast majority of cases, clean rainwater evaporates without a trace without causing any damages. Thus, dampness caused by clean fresh water is fully reversible.

The real problem, however, is when dampness is combined with minerals or salts. In the presence of salts everything changes. Salts are hard, solid minerals that in the presence of water temporarily go liquid. However, when humidity evaporates the salts re-crystallize and expand in volume 5-10 times. The crystallization or mechanical expansion of salt crystals is what makes old masonries or plasters crumble, salts being responsible for far more damages than water ingress and frost. This is a very important technical point that needs to be understood.

It's not moisture that damages old buildings or the plastering. It's the salts.

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Crystallizing salts under the microscope: the primary cause of masonry decay

On real buildings the effect of salts can be very difficult to assess, as dissolved salts become invisible to the eye and touch, only dampness being obviously present. However, under controlled laboratory conditions the effect of salts can be easily demonstrated, measured and understood.

Here is a lab experiment: when two identical bricks - one salty, the other one not - have been subjected to high air humidity variations for an extended period of time, the salty brick has crumbled badly while the non-salty brick stayed completely intact in a high humidity environment.

So salts are the real problem, however it's water that carries them everywhere, contributing to their damaging effects.

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Research experiment: salty bricks crumble, non-salty ones stay intact

3. Internal Replastering

Commonly, old buildings are replastered with lime plasters to keep the fabric breathable. This indeed checks the breathability aspect, however it does not address the problem of salts. Normal lime plasters are not salt resistant, thus they can easily be damaged by salts. As a result, the longevity of lime plastering is often much shorter than it could be.

However, there is a plastering solution that combines breathability, salt resistance and longevity of plastering in one robust, workable, tried-and-tested, building-friendly, traditional solution.

Addressing the Problem of Masonry Salts

Dealing with high humidity and the destructive effect of salts requires special lime plasters. These are ancient plaster mixes initially used by the Phoenicians and Greeks, then rediscovered and perfected by the Romans throughout the centuries. Being outstanding architects and builders, the Romans have observed that adding to lime certain volcanic sands and ashes (also known as natural pozzolans - highly porous and breathable lava materials), these can significantly alter the properties of lime while retaining its breathability.

Through the skilful use of different types of volcanic sands and ashes, the Romans have created many types of lime mortars with outstanding properties - some of them becoming waterproof or able to set underwater, or becoming highly resistant to salts resisting seawater.

These volcanic lime mortars have been extensively used by the Romans in very demanding environments including sewers, ports, spas and aqueducts and they have survived for many centuries. They have also been widely used in Venice, as they perform extremely well in the humid and aggressive environment of the Venetian lagoon.

coreconservation solutions natural pozzolan01
Natural volcanic pozzolan under the microscope: reveals a highly porous, breathable pore structure

Traditional pozzolanic Roman mortars differ significantly from today’s modern NHL (Natural hydraulic lime) mortars.

NHL mortars - a mix of lime and clay - need to be fired at higher temperatures than normal (air) limes for the lime and clay to react. The higher firing temperatures and more heat partially closes off the pores of NHL plasters, reducing their breathability. Thus, NHL plasters trade-off breathability for improved water resistance.

Roman mortars use lime and volcanic materials. These are mixed at room temperature without heat as the volcanic sands and ashes have already been pre-burnt by the volcano. This keeps the pores structure open resulting in high breathability. The volcanic ingredients make the plaster highly resistant to dampness and salts, making these Roman mortars perform extremely well in damp and salty environments.

The commercially available material today is the Rinzaffo MGN lime plaster. It comes in 25 kg bags with all necessary ingredients pre-mixed, requiring only water. Once it hardens it becomes waterproof, extremely resistant to all salts (chlorides, nitrates, sulphates), yet thanks to its porous volcanic lava ingredients, it stays breathable allowing the wall fabric to breathe.

This plaster - depending on where it's used - performs several important functions:

  • Liquid moisture barrier: as a result of its special pore structure, this plaster acts as a selective moisture barrier, stopping liquid water while allowing the passage of vapours.
  • Salt barrier: this plaster acts a salt barrier, protecting subsequent lime coats from premature decay caused by dampness and salts. As a result the longevity of lime plastering increases by about 10 times.
  • Consolidates the frail, crumbly masonry, providing a solid, dry, breathable surface to build on. 
  • Internal humidity regulator: by stopping liquid water it regulates the internal humidity, creating a drier, healthier, warmer, more comfortable climate.
  • Improves the performance of thermal insulation by keeping any thermal plaster applied on it dry. A dry insulation performs thermally much better than a moist or damp insulation.

This lime plaster is made exclusively of natural materials. It contains no chemicals nor additives. All prime materials as well as the final product is certified.

Thus, the Rinzaffo MGN plaster is a lime plaster that acts as breathable water and salt filter. Due to its small pores it blocks liquid water. Due to its open pore structure allows the wall fabric to breathe. Having no salt content of its own, it does not introduce salts into the masonry. Being waterproof, it becomes impervious to salt penetration and crystallization, resulting in an extremely long service life even in very demanding and damp environments (e.g. basements).

Using this Roman plaster as a base coat under the main plaster coat prevents the premature degradation of lime plastering, resulting in long-lasting lime plastering that can last for several decades in very damp and salty environments.  

4. Lack of Thermal Insulation

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The energy efficiency of old buildings is a hot topic nowadays. Unlike new buildings which are designed and built with adequate insulation in mind, the retrofit insulation of old and listed buildings – especially the ones with solid walls – poses significant challenges, as the materials used in this regard must satisfy multiple (often conflicting) requirements:

  • Resist moisture: due to their construction, old walls are often affected by multiple moisture sources. Wind driven rain can easily saturate external walls. Temperature differences can be an ongoing source of condensation on external walls. Moreover, the base of old walls is often subject to rising damp resulting in ongoing moisture and salt damage.
  • Breathable: in order to prevent the build-up of moisture behind the thermal insulation (which can seriously damage the building fabric long-term), the insulation MUST be breathable so the humidity can evaporate. 
  • Traditional look and feel: wherever possible, the use of traditional, building-friendly materials is recommended.

The vast majority of insulating solutions on the marketplace, however, have been developed for newer buildings. They offer good thermal insulation, but modern materials – foam, plastic, metal foil, cement etc. – are non breathable, they trap moisture which can lead to future dampness problems.

Due to increasing energy costs, government pressure as well as the need for greater comfort, breathability is often sacrificed, leading to severe dampness problems in old building years or decades later.

Using breathable insulation materials in old buildings, such as lime thermal insulation, is very important for the long-term health and the integrity of the building fabric. 

5. Water Ingress Problems

Due to the decayed, poor condition of many agricultural buildings, water ingress is a common problem.

Water ingress can take many forms, the most important ones being:

  • Roof leaks
  • Excessive rainwater or wind driven rain
  • Chimney dampness 
  • Dampness in wall sections slightly or partially underground
  • Waterproofing damp cellars or basements
  • Water splashback at the base of the walls

In such cases, due to their properties, regular lime plasters do not provide a robust enough, long-lasting solution. As a result, waterproofing jobs on old buildings are often performed with modern materials such as tanking slurries, bituminous tanking materials, plastic membranes, just to name a few. Although these perform well in keeping liquid water out, when used in older or listed buildings designed to breathe, they also come with important drawbacks or trade-offs. 

Suitable lime alternatives exist which can replace modern Portland cement or plastic membranes, providing a robust long-term solution that also keeps the wall fabric breathable.   

6. External Rendering Problems

In order to protect old walls from driving rain, a common solution is the rendering of the wall fabric with a waterproof render. 

The fabric of older buildings – typically the ones built before the 1930s – often contains a significant amount of moisture, which is kept in check by ongoing natural evaporation. In order to keep moisture levels low, the renders used for the waterproofing of old buildings must permit the evaporation of moisture, as such they must be breathable.

Because waterproofing and breathabilty are two opposing characteristics which are technically difficult and expensive to achieve, in practical waterproofing the concept of breathability is often overlooked or sacrificed. This oversight results in the gradual build-up of moisture inside the wall fabric, leading to (often long undetected) major dampness problems in older buildings.

Due to its widespread use and low cost, one of the most commonly used render materials today is cement – a material that promises good weather protection - however in older buildings it also comes with some notable drawbacks.

Some of the reasons why cement-based renders should not be used in older buildings are:

  • Chemical incompatibility with old buildings: cement contains many chemical additives and salts (up to 10%). In the presence of moisture, these salts from the cement continuously migrate into the masonry1Vecchio F: Evaluation of mortar performance for maintenance, conservation and restoration interventions - Master's thesis, Polytechnic of Turin, April 2019. https://webthesis.biblio.polito.it/10439, steadily increasing its salinity, leading to spalling, crumbling of the underlying wall fabric and the detachment of the cement render. A hollow-sound render, when tapped, indicates this detachment. 
  • Non-breathable: they don’t let moisture freely evaporate from the underlying (damp) wall fabric, resulting in an excessive build-up of moisture leading to long-term dampness problems.
  • Hard and brittle: being dense, rigid and inflexible materials, ongoing vibrations and building movement make the cement crack. Once their waterproofing ability gets compromised, cementicious materials let rainwater in, leading to additional dampness problems over time.
  • Poor thermal performance: being a dense material, cement plasters in general are very poor thermal insulators, causing condensation and mould problems.

Lime-based breathable render alternatives exist that can solve all water penetration problems fully in a building-friendly way with no drawbacks, keeping the wall fabric breathable long-term.  

7. Structural Repair or Reinforcement Works

As a result of the ongoing long-term decay of the old historic fabric, sometimes some structural consolidation of old walls or rebuilding the damaged masonry becomes necessary.

The structural consolidation of older walls and buildings is often done with cement-based mortars or concrete, for a number of reasons:

  • Low cost: being produced in large quantities, cement mortars are cheap.
  • Mechanical strength: cement has the mechanical strength to withstand large loads which can be advantageous in some situations.
  • Wide-spread use in the building industry: particularly in new-build applications.
  • Not being aware of the damages cement can cause to old structures: as mentioned earlier, cement-based materials can damage old buildings in a number of ways. Not being aware of these opens the door to such damages.
  • Not being aware of building-friendly alternatives: the de-facto construction material today is cement.

However, there is more to structural consolidation than just cement.

The Romans have developed lime-based alternatives, building some impressive buildings that have lasted hundreds of years using lime mortars. The Colosseum or the Pantheon in Rome are just some examples of Roman architecture fully built with lime about 2,000 years ago that still stand today.

structural reinforcement of old walls
The Colloseum in Rome, built around 80 AD. It has been standing for 2,000 years on a 6 metre thick lime foundation

So the right types of Roman limes are definitely suitable for all sorts of structural works, and they are breathable.

Building-Friendly Renovation Solutions

Here is how to resolve all the above problems in a building-friendly way. The solution of each of these problems is detailed on their individual solution pages given below:  

  1. Rising damp: solving rising damp with the non-invasive magnetic DPC technology.
  2. Dealing with the problem of salts: using the salt-resistant Rinzaffo MGN Roman lime plaster.  
  3. Internal replastering: find out the secret of long-lasting replastering with lime.
  4. Breathable thermal insulations: high-quality breathable lime thermal insulations.
  5. Solving water ingress problems: solving water ingress, waterproofing old walls with lime.
  6. External rendering: solving wind-driven rain, rerendering old building with lime.
  7. Structural reinforcement with lime: here is how to reinforce old buildings with lime.     

For more information, please see below a list of technical pages, projects, image galleries and videos related to this solution.

References

References

Recommended Products

Here are the typical recommended materials / products for this solution. Other plaster variations are possible as we have different types of main coats (normal or thermal) and finishes (smoother, grainier, coloured etc.) depending on your needs or application. Please get in touch to discuss additional options.

More Information

Here are some related pages with additional technical information, giving you a more in-depth understanding of this topic.

Photo Galleries

Here are some photos demonstrating this solution. Click on any image to open the photo gallery.

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Timber-frame Farmhouse - Full Refurbishment & Thermal Insulation

1600s timber-frame listed farmhouse undergoing full refurbishment from top to bottom addressing sympathetically many problems including: new roof, lime pointing, timber infill panels, thermal insulation, replastering, structural reinforcement with lime and lime floors – just to name the most important aspects of the project. 

Videos

Here are some videos related to this solution. Please unmute the videos when playing them.

Showing videos: 1 - 4 of 4 total.

Any Questions? Need Technical Advice?

If you have any questions about a project, a problem, a solution, or any of our plasters - please get in touch.

We understand that each project is unique. Using the contact form below feel free to ask us any questions. Give us as much detail as you can about your project so we can get back to you with more relevant answers. 

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Plaster Application

Here are some key application points about the application of each plaster, as well as links to the full application guides. Additional documents can be found on the individual plaster pages. 

Rinzaffo

rinzaffo category

Base, Waterproofing

  • Clean the masonry: the plaster must be applied on a cleaned and uniformly wet substrate. All crumbling and loose parts must be removed by brushing so the masonry is free of dust, salts and oils. If possible, also wash the walls with a pressure washer; this will clean and wet the walls in one go. Close larger holes with lime mortar and pieces of bricks.
  • Must be the first coat: the Rinzaffo MGN plaster must be the first coat on any wall. It should not be applied on top of other parge coats or plasters because when those fail the performance of the Roman base coat will also likely to be affected.
  • No salt-inhibitors nor PVA bonding agents should be used before the application of the plaster. The plaster bonds well on its own.
  • Masonry paints should be removed (which occasionally can be challenging) so the plaster can firmly adhere to the underlying stones or bricks. Remove at least 50% of the existing paint – the more is removed, the better.
  • Mixing: mix the material with clean tap water only without adding anything else (no other material or additive), until a homogenous, creamy-consistency mix is obtained. 
  • Wet the wall fabric abundantly before applying the plaster, as well as in-between each subsequent coat. Lime plasters need moisture as they set slowly in a damp environment. If the walls are already damp, there is no need to wait to become drier, you can proceed with the application of this plaster. 
  • Level uneven surface first: very uneven walls (e.g. stone walls or crumbling old brick walls) are recommended to be patched up and levelled first before the application of a continuous coat, to ensure the consistency and required thickness of the base coat.
  • Application: apply the plaster in 10 mm coats.
  • IMPORTANT: Respect the thickness: do not under-spec the material. Apply min 10 mm (1 coat) for above ground level walls. Apply min 20 mm thickness (in 2 coats) for underground or extremely damp or salty walls. If more than one coat is applied, embedding a 10 x 10 mm fibreglass mesh is recommended between the coats – a standard practice in the industry.
  • IMPORTANT: Close all pores, no matter how small. Treat and apply the plaster as a tanking-grade material. Attention should be paid to compact it on the wall closing off all pores, no matter how small, leaving no gaps or holes where salts or liquid water could come through. Once an area has been completed, recheck that here are no missed holes, not even small ones.

    The plaster application video below explains the concept in detail.

  • Light key: give the plaster a light key using a wet brush. Do not cut into the material with the edge of a trowel.
  • IMPORTANT: Dark patches. Allow the plaster to dry for 48 hours. Ideally, the whole surface should dry out uniformly to light brown, however you might notice some dark or damp-looking areas exhibiting surface condensation. Dark areas indicate insufficient thickness of the plaster in raport to the amount of moisture behind it. This occurs in areas where the underlying wall fabric is very damp, the intense evaporation causing surface condensation.
    The fix is easy: apply extra material over such dark areas increasing the thickness of the plaster, closing off all pores. The increased plaster volume dilutes the vapour flow allowing the surface to dry.
  • Additional coats can be applied in further 10 mm increments. Use an embedded fibreglass mesh for extra reinforcement over the recommended thickness.
  • Application conditions: ambient and wall temperatures must be between +5 to +30°C during application. Surfaces should be protected from rain and humidity until they have completely dried (approx. 3 – 10 days depending on weather conditions).
  • IMPORTANT: Please watch the plaster application video below before applying the material. Unmute the video if it plays without sound.

Calcina Bianca

  • Clean the masonry: the plaster must be applied on a cleaned and uniformly wet substrate. All crumbling and loose parts must be removed by brushing so the masonry is free of dust, salts and oils. If possible, also wash the walls with a pressure washer; this will clean and wet the walls in one go. Close larger holes with lime mortar and pieces of bricks.
  • Mixing: mix the material with clean tap water only without adding anything else (no other material or additive), until a homogenous, creamy-consistency mix is obtained. 
  • Recommended thickness: min recommended thickness for interior walls is 15 mm, for external walls is 20 mm.
  • Application: apply the plaster in 10 mm coats.
  • Additional coats can be applied in further 10 mm increments. Use an embedded fibreglass mesh for extra reinforcement over the recommended thickness.
  • Finish options: main lime coats can be optionally left without finishing. To have a finished surface any MGN finish can be applied: Calcina Fine MGN (white lime finish), Intonachino Arenino MGN (coloured lime finish) or Marmorino MGN (Venetian Marmorino finish).
  • Painting: as this is a breathable lime plaster, wall surfaces should be painted with a breathable mineral paint. Wallpapers and modern emulsion petrol-based paints, with no or limited breathability, should be avoided.
  • Application conditions: ambient and wall temperatures must be between +5 to +30°C during application. Surfaces should be protected from rain and humidity until they have completely dried (approx. 3 – 10 days depending on weather conditions).

Termointonaco 2020

  • Clean the masonry: the plaster must be applied on a cleaned and uniformly wet substrate. All crumbling and loose parts must be removed by brushing so the masonry is free of dust, salts and oils. If possible, also wash the walls with a pressure washer; this will clean and wet the walls in one go. Close larger holes with lime mortar and pieces of bricks.
  • Mixing: mix the material with clean tap water only without adding anything else (no other material or additive), until a homogenous, creamy-consistency mix is obtained. 
  • Application: apply the thermal plaster in (up to) 20 mm coats in one pass, without compressing the material. Wait for the previous coat to harden (2-3 days depending on ambient conditions) before applying the next coat. The last layer must be levelled to make the application of the finishing easier.
  • Drying time: as porous thermal plasters take up significantly more water than denser “regular” plasters, they have proportionally longer drying times. Thus, before applying the finish, it is advisable to let the thermal insulation dry for 15-20 days.
  • Finishing: for better mechanical protection thermal plasters should be finished with a dedicated finish (e.g. Megastuk MGN) – these are mechanically more resilient, longer lasting than ordinary lime putty finishes.
  • Painting: as this is a breathable lime plaster, wall surfaces should be painted with a breathable mineral paint. Wallpapers and modern emulsion petrol-based paints, with no or limited breathability, should be avoided.
  • Application conditions: ambient and wall temperatures must be between +5 to +30°C during application. Surfaces should be protected from rain and humidity until they have completely dried (approx. 3 – 10 days depending on weather conditions).

Rasacol

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Finishing

  • Mixing: mix the material with clean tap water only without adding anything else (no other material or additive), until a homogenous, creamy-consistency mix is obtained. 
  • Recommended thickness of the finish: 3-4 mm. For best results, the finish should be applied in two “half-coats” of 2 mm each, with a fine 3-4 mm fibreglass mesh embedded in-between. The mesh makes the finish more flexible, minimizing the appearance of fine cracks.
  • Various textured finishes can be achieved, depending on the finishing technique used:
    • Coarse finish: by finishing the surface with a sponge or wooden trowel.
    • Smooth finish: by using a stainless steel trowel, compressing and smoothing the semi-dry surface, the sand granules are pushed into the material, resulting in a smooth finish.
    • Washed finish: by finishing the surface with a sponge trowel. After the surface has hardened, the surface is washed with water and blotted with a sponge to bring out the aggregate, its specific texture and colour.
  • Painting: as this is a breathable lime plaster, wall surfaces should be painted with a breathable mineral paint. Wallpapers and modern emulsion petrol-based paints, with no or limited breathability, should be avoided.
  • Application conditions: ambient and wall temperatures must be between +5 to +30°C during application. Surfaces should be protected from rain and humidity until they have completely dried (approx. 3 – 10 days depending on weather conditions).