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Replastering Old Damp Walls

The Secret of Long Lasting Lime Plastering
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Replastering old damp walls needs some attention due to the age and type of materials used in old properties. In order to understand the key concepts behind replastering old damp walls, let's look at some differences between older and newer buildings. 

Older and Newer Buildings

Older and newer buildings have been built very differently.

Older buildings (pre-1940s) have been designed and built to be water permeable. Breathable materials allow a large percentage of the moisture to evaporate.

older and newer buildings
Older building

Newer buildings have been built watertight, using modern non-permeable materials (including plastics), designed to keep moisture out.

older and newer buildings
Newer building

Using Newer Materials on Older Buildings

As a result of these fundamental design and construction differences, using non-breathable newer materials on older buildings can have detrimental effects, leading to the rapid decay of the weaker, older fabric for the following reasons:

  • Moisture: the fabric of old walls can naturally contain significant amounts of moisture. The moisture can originate from multiple sources commonly from the ground (e.g. rising damp, water splashback) or the air (e.g. rain, sea-spray etc.).
  • Salts: the fabric of older buildings often contains significant amounts of salts, especially near ground level. Water dissolves the salts from the environment and transports them into the building fabric. Most common sources of salts are rising damp (salts absorbed from the ground), leaks/water ingress (running water washing salts into the fabric), the chimney soot (which contains high amounts of sulphate salts), as well as the air (from sea spray, salty winds or pollution from cars or nearby factories). These salts accumulate over time in the wall fabric and the older the building the higher its salts content.
  • Modern non-breathable materials: act as moisture barriers trapping moisture, which can lead to significant moisture accumulation inside the wall fabric. Some modern materials, such as cement, contains lots of additives and salts, which contributes to the damages. The combined effect of moisture + salts through multiple mechanisms start an irreversible degradation of the old wall fabric.

Restoring breathability of the old fabric reduces the moisture content of the masonry which often results in a significant improvement. However, the removal of non-breathable materials does not always fully reverses the masonry's condition to its original condition as damages caused by salts are to a large extent irreversible.

Thus, as a general rule, older (pre-1940s) building should be renovated with traditional breathable building materials. Cement plasters and plastic membranes should be avoided if possible, and for replastering or re-rendering works breathable lime alternatives should be sought.

The Problem of Salts

Contrary to common belief it's not moisture that damages the wall fabric or the plastering. It's the salts. High moisture content alone does not damage old buildings. Salts do.

Although water can cause damages to lime plasters through flooding, longstanding water ingress or frost, in the vast majority of cases, clean rainwater evaporates without a trace without causing any damages. Thus, dampness caused by clean fresh water is fully reversible.

The real problem, however, is when dampness is combined with minerals or salts. In the presence of salts everything changes. Salts are hard, solid minerals that in the presence of water temporarily go liquid. However, when humidity evaporates the salts re-crystallize and expand in volume 5-10 times. The crystallization or mechanical expansion of salt crystals is what makes old masonries or plasters crumble, salts being responsible for far more damages than water ingress and frost. This is a very important technical point that needs to be understood.

It's not moisture that damages old buildings or the plastering. It's the salts.

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Crystallizing salts under the microscope: the primary cause of masonry decay

On real buildings the effect of salts can be very difficult to assess, as dissolved salts become invisible to the eye and touch, only dampness being obviously present. However, under controlled laboratory conditions the effect of salts can be easily demonstrated, measured and understood.

Here is a lab experiment: when two identical bricks - one salty, the other one not - have been subjected to high air humidity variations for an extended period of time, the salty brick has crumbled badly while the non-salty brick stayed completely intact in a high humidity environment.

So salts are the real problem, however it's water that carries them everywhere, contributing to their damaging effects.

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Research experiment: salty bricks crumble, non-salty ones stay intact

Replastering Old Damp Walls - The Usual Way

Commonly, old buildings are replastered with lime plasters to keep the fabric breathable. This indeed checks the breathability aspect, however it does not address the problem of salts. Normal lime plasters are not salt resistant, thus they can easily be damaged by salts. As a result, the longevity of lime plastering is often much shorter than it could be.

But, there is a better way. There is a plastering solution that combines breathability, salt resistance and longevity of plastering in one robust, workable, tried-and-tested, building-friendly, traditional solution.

Addressing the Problem of Masonry Salts

Dealing with high humidity and the destructive effect of salts requires special lime plasters. These are ancient plaster mixes initially used by the Phoenicians and Greeks, then rediscovered and perfected by the Romans throughout the centuries. Being outstanding architects and builders, the Romans have observed that adding to lime certain volcanic sands and ashes (also known as natural pozzolans - highly porous and breathable lava materials), these can significantly alter the properties of lime while retaining its breathability.

Through the skilful use of different types of volcanic sands and ashes, the Romans have created many types of lime mortars with outstanding properties - some of them becoming waterproof or able to set underwater, or becoming highly resistant to salts resisting seawater.

These volcanic lime mortars have been extensively used by the Romans in very demanding environments including sewers, ports, spas and aqueducts and they have survived for many centuries. They have also been widely used in Venice, as they perform extremely well in the humid and aggressive environment of the Venetian lagoon.

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Natural volcanic pozzolan under the microscope: reveals a highly porous, breathable pore structure

Traditional pozzolanic Roman mortars differ significantly from today’s modern NHL (Natural hydraulic lime) mortars.

NHL mortars - a mix of lime and clay - need to be fired at higher temperatures than normal (air) limes for the lime and clay to react. The higher firing temperatures and more heat partially closes off the pores of NHL plasters, reducing their breathability. Thus, NHL plasters trade-off breathability for improved water resistance.

Roman mortars use lime and volcanic materials. These are mixed at room temperature without heat as the volcanic sands and ashes have already been pre-burnt by the volcano. This keeps the pores structure open resulting in high breathability. The volcanic ingredients make the plaster highly resistant to dampness and salts, making these Roman mortars perform extremely well in damp and salty environments.

The commercially available material today is the Rinzaffo MGN lime plaster. It comes in 25 kg bags with all necessary ingredients pre-mixed, requiring only water. Once it hardens it becomes waterproof, extremely resistant to all salts (chlorides, nitrates, sulphates), yet thanks to its porous volcanic lava ingredients, it stays breathable allowing the wall fabric to breathe.

This plaster - depending on where it's used - performs several important functions:

  • Liquid moisture barrier: as a result of its special pore structure, this plaster acts as a selective moisture barrier, stopping liquid water while allowing the passage of vapours.
  • Salt barrier: this plaster acts a salt barrier, protecting subsequent lime coats from premature decay caused by dampness and salts. As a result the longevity of lime plastering increases by about 10 times.
  • Consolidates the frail, crumbly masonry, providing a solid, dry, breathable surface to build on. 
  • Internal humidity regulator: by stopping liquid water it regulates the internal humidity, creating a drier, healthier, warmer, more comfortable climate.
  • Improves the performance of thermal insulation by keeping any thermal plaster applied on it dry. A dry insulation performs thermally much better than a moist or damp insulation.

This lime plaster is made exclusively of natural materials. It contains no chemicals nor additives. All prime materials as well as the final product is certified.

Thus, the Rinzaffo MGN plaster is a lime plaster that acts as breathable water and salt filter. Due to its small pores it blocks liquid water. Due to its open pore structure allows the wall fabric to breathe. Having no salt content of its own, it does not introduce salts into the masonry. Being waterproof, it becomes impervious to salt penetration and crystallization, resulting in an extremely long service life even in very demanding and damp environments (e.g. basements).

An Improved, Longer-Lasting Lime Replastering

The improved lime plastering schedule, that "ticks all boxes" - breathability, water and salt resistance, moisture control, long life expectancy - consists of the application of the following 3 plaster coats:

  1. Base coat: the Rinzaffo MGN Roman salt-resistant lime base coat
  2. Main coat: a main lime plaster coat, which can be a regular or thermal lime coat
  3. Finishing coat (optional): a good quality lime finish

This concept is very similar to the current lime renovation concept, except it extends that by adding the Roman waterproof, salt-resistant base coat to the plastering schedule. This Roman coat does the "heavy lifting" in the background, protecting the other lime coats (the main and finishing coats) from premature decay from the combined effect of humidity and salts. Being a heritage-friendly material, it is extensively used in one of the most historic cities of the world - Venice - a World Heritage Site. 

The renovation concept is detailed below.

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Commonplace lime plastering
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The improved long-lasting lime plastering solution

For more information, please see below a list of recommended MGN lime plasters for the implementation of this solution, as well as technical pages, projects, image galleries and videos related to this solution and materials.

Technical Guide - Download

Download the technical guide of this solution in PDF format. 

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Recommended Products

Here are the typical recommended materials / products for this solution. Other plaster variations are possible as we have different types of main coats (normal or thermal) and finishes (smoother, grainier, coloured etc.) depending on your needs or application. Please get in touch to discuss additional options.

Completed Projects

Here are some of our projects using this solution:

More Information

Here are some related pages with additional technical information, giving you a more in-depth understanding of this topic.

Photo Galleries

Here are some photos demonstrating this solution. Click on any image to open the photo gallery.

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Dealing with Excess Salinity - Salt Warehouses of Venice (Magazzini del Sale)

The Salt Warehouses of Venice (Magazzini del Sale) date back to the beginning of the 15th century. They were built to store a very precious trade commodity: salt. Situated across 9 large halls, the salt warehouse could hold up to 4500 tons of salts.

As a result of its location (Venice) and its use (a salt storage) it is probably the most salty building fabric in the world. The only lime plaster capable of withstanding such an extremely salty environment is the Rinzaffo MGN Roman salt-resistant base coat. This plaster is also gentle to the historic fabric – when it reaches its end of its life, it comes off gently without damaging the underlying historic (in this case the nearly 600-year old) wall fabric.

Old Cottage Wall Replastering

This old cottage has been suffering from rising damp for quite a while. As a result the internal plastering has been blown. The long-time fix involves the replastering of the wall with the Rinzaffo MGN Roman salt-resistant base coat, providing a building-friendly fix for several decades.  

Videos

Here are some videos related to this solution. Please unmute the videos when playing them.

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Any Questions? Need Technical Advice?

If you have any questions about a project, a problem, a solution, or any of our plasters - please get in touch.

We understand that each project is unique. Using the contact form below feel free to ask us any questions. Give us as much detail as you can about your project so we can get back to you with more relevant answers. 

Are you in the process of buying / selling the property?
Preferred time for the survey? (tick all that applies)

Testimonials

Here are some client testimonials:

cottage

I agree, I can see with my own eyes how the Rinzaffo is dealing with moisture. I’m actually amazed by the product. It’s a difficult product to work with initially, but we have to understand that this is not the finish. I have seen with my own eyes how it is dealing with moisture. There are a couple of walls that I can see need 3 or 4 mm extra.

To breathably tank a building like Romford farm is unknown. I must admit I was dubious at the start, but open to the idea. There is no modern building products that I am aware of, or am used to that could possibly be an alternative.

I can see with my own eyes and other senses how the dampness in that building is disappearing the more work that we do. … You have to understand …. I entered that building early on…. It was rotten with moisture. I would say inhabitable. Day by day it gets better.

Builder, Romford Farm

Plaster Application

Here are some key application points about the application of each plaster, as well as links to the full application guides. Additional documents can be found on the individual plaster pages. 

Rinzaffo

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Base, Waterproofing

  • Clean the masonry: the plaster must be applied on a cleaned and uniformly wet substrate. All crumbling and loose parts must be removed by brushing so the masonry is free of dust, salts and oils. If possible, also wash the walls with a pressure washer; this will clean and wet the walls in one go. Close larger holes with lime mortar and pieces of bricks.
  • Must be the first coat: the Rinzaffo MGN plaster must be the first coat on any wall. It should not be applied on top of other parge coats or plasters because when those fail the performance of the Roman base coat will also likely to be affected.
  • No salt-inhibitors nor PVA bonding agents should be used before the application of the plaster. The plaster bonds well on its own.
  • Masonry paints should be removed (which occasionally can be challenging) so the plaster can firmly adhere to the underlying stones or bricks. Remove at least 50% of the existing paint – the more is removed, the better.
  • Mixing: mix the material with clean tap water only without adding anything else (no other material or additive), until a homogenous, creamy-consistency mix is obtained. 
  • Wet the wall fabric abundantly before applying the plaster, as well as in-between each subsequent coat. Lime plasters need moisture as they set slowly in a damp environment. If the walls are already damp, there is no need to wait to become drier, you can proceed with the application of this plaster. 
  • Level uneven surface first: very uneven walls (e.g. stone walls or crumbling old brick walls) are recommended to be patched up and levelled first before the application of a continuous coat, to ensure the consistency and required thickness of the base coat.
  • Application: apply the plaster in 10 mm coats.
  • IMPORTANT: Respect the thickness: do not under-spec the material. Apply min 10 mm (1 coat) for above ground level walls. Apply min 20 mm thickness (in 2 coats) for underground or extremely damp or salty walls. If more than one coat is applied, embedding a 10 x 10 mm fibreglass mesh is recommended between the coats – a standard practice in the industry.
  • IMPORTANT: Close all pores, no matter how small. Treat and apply the plaster as a tanking-grade material. Attention should be paid to compact it on the wall closing off all pores, no matter how small, leaving no gaps or holes where salts or liquid water could come through. Once an area has been completed, recheck that here are no missed holes, not even small ones.

    The plaster application video below explains the concept in detail.

  • Light key: give the plaster a light key using a wet brush. Do not cut into the material with the edge of a trowel.
  • IMPORTANT: Dark patches. Allow the plaster to dry for 48 hours. Ideally, the whole surface should dry out uniformly to light brown, however you might notice some dark or damp-looking areas exhibiting surface condensation. Dark areas indicate insufficient thickness of the plaster in raport to the amount of moisture behind it. This occurs in areas where the underlying wall fabric is very damp, the intense evaporation causing surface condensation.
    The fix is easy: apply extra material over such dark areas increasing the thickness of the plaster, closing off all pores. The increased plaster volume dilutes the vapour flow allowing the surface to dry.
  • Additional coats can be applied in further 10 mm increments. Use an embedded fibreglass mesh for extra reinforcement over the recommended thickness.
  • Application conditions: ambient and wall temperatures must be between +5 to +30°C during application. Surfaces should be protected from rain and humidity until they have completely dried (approx. 3 – 10 days depending on weather conditions).
  • IMPORTANT: Please watch the plaster application video below before applying the material. Unmute the video if it plays without sound.

Calcina Bianca

  • Clean the masonry: the plaster must be applied on a cleaned and uniformly wet substrate. All crumbling and loose parts must be removed by brushing so the masonry is free of dust, salts and oils. If possible, also wash the walls with a pressure washer; this will clean and wet the walls in one go. Close larger holes with lime mortar and pieces of bricks.
  • Mixing: mix the material with clean tap water only without adding anything else (no other material or additive), until a homogenous, creamy-consistency mix is obtained. 
  • Recommended thickness: min recommended thickness for interior walls is 15 mm, for external walls is 20 mm.
  • Application: apply the plaster in 10 mm coats.
  • Additional coats can be applied in further 10 mm increments. Use an embedded fibreglass mesh for extra reinforcement over the recommended thickness.
  • Finish options: main lime coats can be optionally left without finishing. To have a finished surface any MGN finish can be applied: Calcina Fine MGN (white lime finish), Intonachino Arenino MGN (coloured lime finish) or Marmorino MGN (Venetian Marmorino finish).
  • Painting: as this is a breathable lime plaster, wall surfaces should be painted with a breathable mineral paint. Wallpapers and modern emulsion petrol-based paints, with no or limited breathability, should be avoided.
  • Application conditions: ambient and wall temperatures must be between +5 to +30°C during application. Surfaces should be protected from rain and humidity until they have completely dried (approx. 3 – 10 days depending on weather conditions).

Calcina Fine

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Finishing

  • Mixing: mix the material with clean tap water only without adding anything else (no other material or additive), until a homogenous, creamy-consistency mix is obtained. 
  • Recommended thickness of the finish: 3-4 mm. For best results, the finish should be applied in two “half-coats” of 2 mm each, with a fine 3-4 mm fibreglass mesh embedded in-between. The mesh makes the finish more flexible, minimizing the appearance of fine cracks.
  • Various textured finishes can be achieved, depending on the finishing technique used:
    • Coarse finish: by finishing the surface with a sponge or wooden trowel.
    • Smooth finish: by using a stainless steel trowel, compressing and smoothing the semi-dry surface, the sand granules are pushed into the material, resulting in a smooth finish.
    • Washed finish: by finishing the surface with a sponge trowel. After the surface has hardened, the surface is washed with water and blotted with a sponge to bring out the aggregate, its specific texture and colour.
  • Painting: as this is a breathable lime plaster, wall surfaces should be painted with a breathable mineral paint. Wallpapers and modern emulsion petrol-based paints, with no or limited breathability, should be avoided.
  • Application conditions: ambient and wall temperatures must be between +5 to +30°C during application. Surfaces should be protected from rain and humidity until they have completely dried (approx. 3 – 10 days depending on weather conditions).