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Lime Thermal Insulation

Breathable Insulation of Old (Solid) Walls
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The Challenges of Insulating Old Buildings

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The energy efficiency of old buildings is a hot topic nowadays. Unlike new buildings which are designed and built with adequate insulation in mind, the retrofit insulation of old and listed buildings – especially the ones with solid walls – poses significant challenges, as the materials used in this regard must satisfy multiple (often conflicting) requirements:

  • Resist moisture: due to their construction, old walls are often affected by multiple moisture sources. Wind driven rain can easily saturate external walls. Temperature differences can be an ongoing source of condensation on external walls. Moreover, the base of old walls is often subject to rising damp resulting in ongoing moisture and salt damage.
  • Breathable: in order to prevent the build-up of moisture behind the thermal insulation (which can seriously damage the building fabric long-term), the insulation MUST be breathable so the humidity can evaporate. 
  • Traditional look and feel: wherever possible, the use of traditional, building-friendly materials is recommended.

The vast majority of insulating solutions on the marketplace, however, have been developed for newer buildings. They offer good thermal insulation, but modern materials – foam, plastic, metal foil, cement etc. – are non breathable, they trap moisture which can lead to future dampness problems.

Due to increasing energy costs, government pressure as well as the need for greater comfort, breathability is often sacrificed, leading to severe dampness problems in old building years or decades later.

Using breathable insulation materials in old buildings, such as lime thermal insulation, is very important for the long-term health and the integrity of the building fabric. 

Lime Thermal Insulation Plasters

Lime thermal plasters represent an attractive alternative not only to modern insulations, but also to wood fibre or solid insulation systems because they are:

  • Breathable
  • Traditionally looking
  • Space savings: decorative plaster and thermal insulation in one, saving space 
  • Eliminate thermal bridging and thermal leaks if applied in a continuous coat 
  • Being flexible, they can be used to insulate difficult-to-insulate areas such as window sills   
  • Can be highly resistant to moisture (depending on composition)
  • Have a high fire rating: being non-combustible they have very good (Class 'A') fire ratings in comparison to much more combustible foam and fibre insulations (Class 'D/E' fire rating).
  • A much healthier option to many other alternatives

Good quality lime thermal plasters, if applied correctly, can last for many years.

The most common threat to their integrity, what can damage them over time, or shorten their life span significantly, or decrease their thermal performance is moisture - especially in the presence of salts. Here is why.

The Problem of Salts

Contrary to common belief it's not moisture that damages the wall fabric or the plastering. It's the salts. High moisture content alone does not damage old buildings. Salts do.

Although water can cause damages to lime plasters through flooding, longstanding water ingress or frost, in the vast majority of cases, clean rainwater evaporates without a trace without causing any damages. Thus, dampness caused by clean fresh water is fully reversible.

The real problem, however, is when dampness is combined with minerals or salts. In the presence of salts everything changes. Salts are hard, solid minerals that in the presence of water temporarily go liquid. However, when humidity evaporates the salts re-crystallize and expand in volume 5-10 times. The crystallization or mechanical expansion of salt crystals is what makes old masonries or plasters crumble, salts being responsible for far more damages than water ingress and frost. This is a very important technical point that needs to be understood.

It's not moisture that damages old buildings or the plastering. It's the salts.

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Crystallizing salts under the microscope: the primary cause of masonry decay

On real buildings the effect of salts can be very difficult to assess, as dissolved salts become invisible to the eye and touch, only dampness being obviously present. However, under controlled laboratory conditions the effect of salts can be easily demonstrated, measured and understood.

Here is a lab experiment: when two identical bricks - one salty, the other one not - have been subjected to high air humidity variations for an extended period of time, the salty brick has crumbled badly while the non-salty brick stayed completely intact in a high humidity environment.

So salts are the real problem, however it's water that carries them everywhere, contributing to their damaging effects.

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Research experiment: salty bricks crumble, non-salty ones stay intact

Addressing the Problem of Masonry Salts

Dealing with high humidity and the destructive effect of salts requires special lime plasters. These are ancient plaster mixes initially used by the Phoenicians and Greeks, then rediscovered and perfected by the Romans throughout the centuries. Being outstanding architects and builders, the Romans have observed that adding to lime certain volcanic sands and ashes (also known as natural pozzolans - highly porous and breathable lava materials), these can significantly alter the properties of lime while retaining its breathability.

Through the skilful use of different types of volcanic sands and ashes, the Romans have created many types of lime mortars with outstanding properties - some of them becoming waterproof or able to set underwater, or becoming highly resistant to salts resisting seawater.

These volcanic lime mortars have been extensively used by the Romans in very demanding environments including sewers, ports, spas and aqueducts and they have survived for many centuries. They have also been widely used in Venice, as they perform extremely well in the humid and aggressive environment of the Venetian lagoon.

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Natural volcanic pozzolan under the microscope: reveals a highly porous, breathable pore structure

Traditional pozzolanic Roman mortars differ significantly from today’s modern NHL (Natural hydraulic lime) mortars.

NHL mortars - a mix of lime and clay - need to be fired at higher temperatures than normal (air) limes for the lime and clay to react. The higher firing temperatures and more heat partially closes off the pores of NHL plasters, reducing their breathability. Thus, NHL plasters trade-off breathability for improved water resistance.

Roman mortars use lime and volcanic materials. These are mixed at room temperature without heat as the volcanic sands and ashes have already been pre-burnt by the volcano. This keeps the pores structure open resulting in high breathability. The volcanic ingredients make the plaster highly resistant to dampness and salts, making these Roman mortars perform extremely well in damp and salty environments.

The commercially available material today is the Rinzaffo MGN lime plaster. It comes in 25 kg bags with all necessary ingredients pre-mixed, requiring only water. Once it hardens it becomes waterproof, extremely resistant to all salts (chlorides, nitrates, sulphates), yet thanks to its porous volcanic lava ingredients, it stays breathable allowing the wall fabric to breathe.

This plaster - depending on where it's used - performs several important functions:

  • Liquid moisture barrier: as a result of its special pore structure, this plaster acts as a selective moisture barrier, stopping liquid water while allowing the passage of vapours.
  • Salt barrier: this plaster acts a salt barrier, protecting subsequent lime coats from premature decay caused by dampness and salts. As a result the longevity of lime plastering increases by about 10 times.
  • Consolidates the frail, crumbly masonry, providing a solid, dry, breathable surface to build on. 
  • Internal humidity regulator: by stopping liquid water it regulates the internal humidity, creating a drier, healthier, warmer, more comfortable climate.
  • Improves the performance of thermal insulation by keeping any thermal plaster applied on it dry. A dry insulation performs thermally much better than a moist or damp insulation.

This lime plaster is made exclusively of natural materials. It contains no chemicals nor additives. All prime materials as well as the final product is certified.

Thus, the Rinzaffo MGN plaster is a lime plaster that acts as breathable water and salt filter. Due to its small pores it blocks liquid water. Due to its open pore structure allows the wall fabric to breathe. Having no salt content of its own, it does not introduce salts into the masonry. Being waterproof, it becomes impervious to salt penetration and crystallization, resulting in an extremely long service life even in very demanding and damp environments (e.g. basements).

An Improved, Longer-Lasting Thermal Insulation

Our thermal plasters can be applied directly onto any wall surface - brick, stone or concrete; old or new; dry or damp. However, to achieve best performance of the thermal insulation and maximum longevity, the use of the Rinzaffo MGN Roman salt-resistant base coat under the thermal plaster is highly recommended.

Omitting the Roman base coat will not make a difference short-term, but it will make a significant difference long-term. Lime being a porous material, it will take years for the crystallizing salts to fill up its pores, reaching a critical volume that starts causing damages. But given enough salt migration from the underlying masonry into the plaster, salts will eventually make the plastering fail. Using the Roman base coat, which completely blocks the migration of salts into the thermal plaster, will make any lime plastering last significantly longer - typically 5-10 times longer than without it.

The use of the Rinzaffo MGN Roman base coat is a simple, tried-and-tested, traditional, building-friendly solution to mitigate future problems, and ensures a top performance of the thermal insulation or any lime plastering.

So, the improved lime thermal insulation plastering schedule, that "ticks all boxes" - breathability, water and salt resistance, moisture control, improved thermal performance, long life expectancy - consists of the application of the following plaster coats:

  1. Base coat: the Rinzaffo MGN Roman salt-resistant base coat
  2. Thermal insulation coat(s): in one or several coats, depending on desired thermal performance (e.g. U-value) 
  3. Finishing coat: a protective-decorative lime finish

This concept is very similar to the existing lime renovation concept, except it extends that by adding the Roman waterproof, salt-resistant base coat to the plastering schedule. This Roman coat does the "heavy lifting" in the background, protecting the other lime coats (the main and finishing coats) from premature decay from the combined effect of humidity and salts. Being a heritage-friendly material, it is extensively used in one of the most historic cities of the world - Venice - a World Heritage Site. 

The renovation concept is detailed below.

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Internal thermal insulation
external lime thermal insulation
External thermal insulation

Thermal Plaster Choices - Differences

We have several thermal plasters for different applications, including special applications. Although there is an overlap between these materials, there are also key differences between them.

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Termointonaco 2020 MGN

This is an air-lime based, high-performance, medium granulation light thermal plaster, which can be built up in 20 mm passes to significant thicknesses if required. 100-160 mm thick thermal coats can be created if needed, however the common application thickness is about 20 - 60 mm. 

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Termorasante Aerogel MGN

This is an air-lime based aerogel-lime thermal plaster, classed as a super-insulating lime plaster. It has outstanding thermal performance, which is further improved by its excellent heat reflectance, reflecting the heat back into the room. It is a fine granulation plaster which can be applied up to about 30 mm thickness. Due to its outstanding thermal value, it can be used for the thermal insulation of difficult-to-insulate areas such as window reveals. 

It is often combined with the Termointonaco 2020 MGN plaster. Although the Aerogel plaster offers a better thermal performance, depending on your application and target U-values, the mechanical properties and build-up of these materials also must be taken into consideration.

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Coccioterm MGN

This is another air-lime based thermal plaster, a mix of air lime, natural perlite and traditional Roman cocciopesto (brick powder). The porosity of the lime and of the crushed terracotta give the product a high vapor permeability and an exceptional ability to regulate humidity. As a result it performs very well is high-humidity environments, such as basements or cellars.

As thermal lime plasters are light and soft, they require a protective-decorative finish. Although a common lime putty plaster can be applied for this purpose, we have dedicated, highly-breathable lime finishes that perform better and offer a better mechanical protection to the thermal plasters than regular putty plasters.   

For more information, please see below a list of recommended MGN lime plasters for the implementation of this solution, as well as technical pages, projects, image galleries and videos related to this solution and materials.

Technical Guide - Download

Download the technical guide of this solution in PDF format. 

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Recommended Products

Here are the typical recommended materials / products for this solution. Other plaster variations are possible as we have different types of main coats (normal or thermal) and finishes (smoother, grainier, coloured etc.) depending on your needs or application. Please get in touch to discuss additional options.

Completed Projects

Here are some of our projects using this solution:

Awards & Nominations

This solution has won / been nominated for the following industry awards:

More Information

Here are some related pages with additional technical information, giving you a more in-depth understanding of this topic.

Photo Galleries

Here are some photos demonstrating this solution. Click on any image to open the photo gallery.

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Insulating an old farm building with the Aerogel-lime plaster

Here is an application example of a 200-year old listed farm building tower with 3 external walls using the Termorasante Aerogel aerogel-lime plaster.  

Timber-frame Farmhouse - Full Refurbishment & Thermal Insulation

1600s timber-frame listed farmhouse undergoing full refurbishment from top to bottom addressing sympathetically many problems including: new roof, lime pointing, timber infill panels, thermal insulation, replastering, structural reinforcement with lime and lime floors – just to name the most important aspects of the project. 

Videos

Here are some videos related to this solution. Please unmute the videos when playing them.

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Any Questions? Need Technical Advice?

If you have any questions about a project, a problem, a solution, or any of our plasters - please get in touch.

We understand that each project is unique. Using the contact form below feel free to ask us any questions. Give us as much detail as you can about your project so we can get back to you with more relevant answers. 

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Plaster Application

Here are some key application points about the application of each plaster, as well as links to the full application guides. Additional documents can be found on the individual plaster pages. 

Rinzaffo

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Base, Waterproofing

  • Clean the masonry: the plaster must be applied on a cleaned and uniformly wet substrate. All crumbling and loose parts must be removed by brushing so the masonry is free of dust, salts and oils. If possible, also wash the walls with a pressure washer; this will clean and wet the walls in one go. Close larger holes with lime mortar and pieces of bricks.
  • Must be the first coat: the Rinzaffo MGN plaster must be the first coat on any wall. It should not be applied on top of other parge coats or plasters because when those fail the performance of the Roman base coat will also likely to be affected.
  • No salt-inhibitors nor PVA bonding agents should be used before the application of the plaster. The plaster bonds well on its own.
  • Masonry paints should be removed (which occasionally can be challenging) so the plaster can firmly adhere to the underlying stones or bricks. Remove at least 50% of the existing paint – the more is removed, the better.
  • Mixing: mix the material with clean tap water only without adding anything else (no other material or additive), until a homogenous, creamy-consistency mix is obtained. 
  • Wet the wall fabric abundantly before applying the plaster, as well as in-between each subsequent coat. Lime plasters need moisture as they set slowly in a damp environment. If the walls are already damp, there is no need to wait to become drier, you can proceed with the application of this plaster. 
  • Level uneven surface first: very uneven walls (e.g. stone walls or crumbling old brick walls) are recommended to be patched up and levelled first before the application of a continuous coat, to ensure the consistency and required thickness of the base coat.
  • Application: apply the plaster in 10 mm coats.
  • IMPORTANT: Respect the thickness: do not under-spec the material. Apply min 10 mm (1 coat) for above ground level walls. Apply min 20 mm thickness (in 2 coats) for underground or extremely damp or salty walls. If more than one coat is applied, embedding a 10 x 10 mm fibreglass mesh is recommended between the coats – a standard practice in the industry.
  • IMPORTANT: Close all pores, no matter how small. Treat and apply the plaster as a tanking-grade material. Attention should be paid to compact it on the wall closing off all pores, no matter how small, leaving no gaps or holes where salts or liquid water could come through. Once an area has been completed, recheck that here are no missed holes, not even small ones.

    The plaster application video below explains the concept in detail.

  • Light key: give the plaster a light key using a wet brush. Do not cut into the material with the edge of a trowel.
  • IMPORTANT: Dark patches. Allow the plaster to dry for 48 hours. Ideally, the whole surface should dry out uniformly to light brown, however you might notice some dark or damp-looking areas exhibiting surface condensation. Dark areas indicate insufficient thickness of the plaster in raport to the amount of moisture behind it. This occurs in areas where the underlying wall fabric is very damp, the intense evaporation causing surface condensation.
    The fix is easy: apply extra material over such dark areas increasing the thickness of the plaster, closing off all pores. The increased plaster volume dilutes the vapour flow allowing the surface to dry.
  • Additional coats can be applied in further 10 mm increments. Use an embedded fibreglass mesh for extra reinforcement over the recommended thickness.
  • Application conditions: ambient and wall temperatures must be between +5 to +30°C during application. Surfaces should be protected from rain and humidity until they have completely dried (approx. 3 – 10 days depending on weather conditions).
  • IMPORTANT: Please watch the plaster application video below before applying the material. Unmute the video if it plays without sound.

Termointonaco 2020

  • Clean the masonry: the plaster must be applied on a cleaned and uniformly wet substrate. All crumbling and loose parts must be removed by brushing so the masonry is free of dust, salts and oils. If possible, also wash the walls with a pressure washer; this will clean and wet the walls in one go. Close larger holes with lime mortar and pieces of bricks.
  • Mixing: mix the material with clean tap water only without adding anything else (no other material or additive), until a homogenous, creamy-consistency mix is obtained. 
  • Application: apply the thermal plaster in (up to) 20 mm coats in one pass, without compressing the material. Wait for the previous coat to harden (2-3 days depending on ambient conditions) before applying the next coat. The last layer must be levelled to make the application of the finishing easier.
  • Drying time: as porous thermal plasters take up significantly more water than denser “regular” plasters, they have proportionally longer drying times. Thus, before applying the finish, it is advisable to let the thermal insulation dry for 15-20 days.
  • Finishing: for better mechanical protection thermal plasters should be finished with a dedicated finish (e.g. Megastuk MGN) – these are mechanically more resilient, longer lasting than ordinary lime putty finishes.
  • Painting: as this is a breathable lime plaster, wall surfaces should be painted with a breathable mineral paint. Wallpapers and modern emulsion petrol-based paints, with no or limited breathability, should be avoided.
  • Application conditions: ambient and wall temperatures must be between +5 to +30°C during application. Surfaces should be protected from rain and humidity until they have completely dried (approx. 3 – 10 days depending on weather conditions).

TermoRasante AeroGel

  • Mixing: mix the material with clean tap water only without adding anything else (no other material or additive), until a homogenous, creamy-consistency mix is obtained. 
  • Application: apply the plaster with a stainless-steel trowel in a 5-10 mm coat, just spreading and levelling it, without pushing the material around too much. Apply subsequent coats in further 10 mm passes. 
  • Finishing: for better mechanical protection thermal plasters should be finished with a dedicated finish (e.g. Megastuk MGN) – these are mechanically more resilient, longer lasting than ordinary lime putty finishes.
  • Painting: as this is a breathable lime plaster, wall surfaces should be painted with a breathable mineral paint. Wallpapers and modern emulsion petrol-based paints, with no or limited breathability, should be avoided.
  • Application conditions: ambient and wall temperatures must be between +5 to +30°C during application. Surfaces should be protected from rain and humidity until they have completely dried (approx. 3 – 10 days depending on weather conditions).
  • IMPORTANT: Please watch the plaster application video below before applying the material. Unmute the video if it plays without sound.

Rasacol

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Finishing

  • Mixing: mix the material with clean tap water only without adding anything else (no other material or additive), until a homogenous, creamy-consistency mix is obtained. 
  • Recommended thickness of the finish: 3-4 mm. For best results, the finish should be applied in two “half-coats” of 2 mm each, with a fine 3-4 mm fibreglass mesh embedded in-between. The mesh makes the finish more flexible, minimizing the appearance of fine cracks.
  • Various textured finishes can be achieved, depending on the finishing technique used:
    • Coarse finish: by finishing the surface with a sponge or wooden trowel.
    • Smooth finish: by using a stainless steel trowel, compressing and smoothing the semi-dry surface, the sand granules are pushed into the material, resulting in a smooth finish.
    • Washed finish: by finishing the surface with a sponge trowel. After the surface has hardened, the surface is washed with water and blotted with a sponge to bring out the aggregate, its specific texture and colour.
  • Painting: as this is a breathable lime plaster, wall surfaces should be painted with a breathable mineral paint. Wallpapers and modern emulsion petrol-based paints, with no or limited breathability, should be avoided.
  • Application conditions: ambient and wall temperatures must be between +5 to +30°C during application. Surfaces should be protected from rain and humidity until they have completely dried (approx. 3 – 10 days depending on weather conditions).