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Solving Rising Damp

Building-Friendly Solutions
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Rising Damp - A Dual Problem of Water and Salts

Rising damp can be a major concern because of the damages it causes to old buildings worldwide.

Despite its name focusing on "dampness", rising damp is far from being "just" a dampness problem. Rising damp differs significantly from other dampness problems because of the presence of salts. Unlike rainwater ingress and condensation, which are “just” dampness problems, rising damp is a dual problem of dampness and salts.

  • Water is a problem, because it dissolvestransports and deposits the salts from the environment (soil, salty surface etc.) into the masonry, allowing the salts to damage the masonry.
  • Salts are also a problem because when they dry they crystallize and expand. Crumbling, flaking, spalling, powdering and other similar manifestations leading to the permanent damage of the wall fabric and plastering are all caused by the expanding salts.

Water alone rarely causes damages to a breathable masonry. A damp masonry, in the absence of salts, can undergo thousands of wetting-drying cycles and stay perfectly intact.

Between the two – water and salts – the crumbling of masonry caused by the salts is probably the most aggravating problem of rising damp. The role of water is often less obvious as it operates invisibly in the background, diligently transporting dissolved salts, indirectly contributing to the decay problem.

Solving Rising Damp

Solving rising damp involves the following two steps:

  1. Installing a damp proof course: to stop the rise and build-up of moisture in the masonry. This would also stop the accumulation of salts
  2. Replastering and replacing the damaged, blown plaster using the right materials and practices that can deliver a long-lasting renovation without causing additional problems to the masonry (sympathetic renovation).

Step 1 - Installing a DPC

The primary role of a damp proof course (DPC) is to form a liquid water and vapour barrier.

A damp proof course can be created by physicalchemical or electromagnetic means. Several damp proof course technologies exist. These all differ in implementation, efficiency and longevity.

The technology of damp proof courses has constantly evolved. Each DPC technology was a natural evolution over its predecessors, attempting to improve and simplify the application process, while also addressing some of the shortcomings of previous generations. Here is a short development timeline and summary of each.

dpc2-1536x384-core-conservation

Based on written historic records, original physical DPCs date back to around the 1840s, possibly earlier. They were the first attempt to prevent rising damp during times when buildings were generally erected on the soil. Without a DPC a few decades or centuries later rising damp would have appeared causing fabric decay, high humidity and health issues.

The most common materials used for damp proof courses in the Victorian age were slate bedded in cementhot asphaltsheets of lead, glazed bricks and vitrified stone-ware tiles.

As we already know today, these "original" damp proof courses lasted anywhere from a few decades to about a century, eventually failing as they aged, as the lifetime of a damp proof course is shorter than the life expectancy of a building.

Here are some examples of damaged or broken down damp proof courses.

In the vast majority of cases one won't be able to assess the condition of a DPC by visual inspection, as 95% of it is hidden inside the wall. Instead, assessing the condition of the wall and plaster above the DPC level can give one indication about the condition of the underlying DPC.

As a rule of thumb: if the wall shows signs of rising damp above the DPC line, especially on sheltered internal walls, with no other moisture sources present, then the damp proof course is likely to be compromised.

Technical solutions had to be found to retrofit old buildings with new DPCs in order to keep rising damp in check.

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The first attempt to repair aged, decayed DPCs that reached the end of their life, was to add impervious (e.g. blue engineering) bricks to the base of the walls, or to cut the walls with a large chainsaw and drive stainless steel plates into the cut - a very invasive and labour intensive task.

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Technical advancements in chemistry made the retrofitting process of damp proof courses simpler and less invasive by injecting waterproof chemicals into the walls. This reduced the workmanship to a few drilled holes every few inches. Nevertheless, the injection process was still fairly invasive, leaving permanent blemishes on buildings, while giving variable results, performing poorly on thick solid walls with rubble filled core.

osmotic-dpc-3-1-core-conservation

Further technical research into molecular phenomena and a better understanding of electrokinetic phenomena made possible a newer, smarter, less invasive approach to solve rising damp, by applying a small voltage to the walls through embedded wires.

But it was not all perfect, the main reasons why electro-osmotic DPCs failed over time were the corrosion or physical damage to the wires (as shown above), and more importantly, more recent findings have shown that in high salinity environments (e.g. old, porous, salt-laden walls) electro-chemical effects in the masonry rendered many of these systems ineffective.

magnetic-dpc-3-1c-core-conservation

Magnetic DPCs attempted to address the shortcomings of electroosmotic DPCs. New discoveries about Earth's energetic background and how these effect old walls, as well as advancement in wireless technologies resulted in the elimination of the trouble-prone wires - providing a contactless, non-invasive and hassle-free solution to rising damp.

A magnetic DPC unit that looks like a small lampshade and it can cover the whole building, You can read more about the Magnetic DPC technology here

Step 2 - Replastering, Building-Friendly Renovation

After the installation of a damp proof course, replastering is the second major phase in the handling of rising damp.

The main challenge in replastering after rising damp is the presence of SALTS.

Walls affected by rising damp often contain a significant amount of ground salts. These salts have been drawn up by rising damp and deposited into the wall fabric over many decades or centuries. When salts crystallize, they expand in volume 5-10 times, leading to the breakdown of the wall fabric. Crumbling, flaking and loss of building fabric are primarily caused by salts, not water.

Because air lime plasters have poor resistance to salts, modern damp proofing customarily uses sand-and-cement plasters which is not compatible with the fabric of old buildings.

Conservation-Friendly Approach

Before going into technical details, it's worth mentioning that some conservation professionals don't think a DPC is needed as part of the rising damp solution. The main reasons behind this are:

  • Invasiveness: DPC solutions today are synonymous with chemical DPCs. These leave ever-lasting blemishes on old buildings which goes against everything building conservation is about - preserving (rather than damaging) old buildings.
  • Arguable efficiency: conservation professionals regard chemical DPCs as being relatively inefficient, especially in buildings with solid stone walls which make up a significant part of the old building stock.
  • Non-sympathetic replastering: after the installation of a chemical DPC the wall fabric is replastered with modern non-breathable cement plasters, which is not conservation friendly.
  • Uncertainty or confusion about the subject: some question the validity of rising damp due to limited practical experience, inability to observe the phenomenon directly, or lack of education about the fundamental scientific concepts related to the mechanism of rising damp and the significance of salts.

Summing it all up: invasiveness, limited efficiency followed by non-breathable replastering - understandably - make chemical DPCs an extremely non-desirable proposition in the field of building conservation. As a result solving rising dampness is taken in the direction of improved breathability and lime replastering. This is definitely a good approach that works well for lighter cases of rising damp. However, for more serious cases it becomes less efficient - for a number of technical reasons discussed next.

Severity of Rising Damp

In our practical experience, rising damp cases can be divided into several stages of severity:

  • LIGHTER cases of rising damp: this can be typically found in newer buildings, less than 100 years old, in buildings built after the 1930s or the 2nd World War. These buildings have been built with a DPC. They have not been very much exposed to rising damp as their DPC is just starting to fail or started failing not too long ago. As a result the wall have low salinity. Replastering with lime works well in many of these cases.
  • MODERATE cases of rising damp: most 100-150 years old Victorian buildings fall in this category, many of them with some form of DPC. These buildings have more salts in their fabric which retain more humidity. The hygroscopic action of salts start negating some of the benefits of breathability. Replastering these walls with lime gives variable results, depending on the moisture and salt content of the wall fabric.
  • SEVERE cases of rising damp: these are the older buildings, typically 200+ years old. They have no original DPC. Being exposed to the damp ground and the migration of salts for about two centuries, their fabric is damp and salty. Due to the high salts content of the fabric, breathability as a way of keeping the fabric dry has limited effect. Replastering these buildings with lime usually does not provide a long-term solution, the lime plaster being blown by the salts within months or a few short years, the building needing ongoing replastering.

Aggravating Factors

The above categorization is just a generic guideline as there are always exceptions to the rule due to the many variables of the problem. There are, however, several aggravating factors, that can increase the severity of rising damp in buildings. These are:

replastering old damp walls
Church of San Bernardino, Rome
  • THICK WALLS: thick walls have much larger volume than thin walls and as such they retain much more moisture and salts than thinner walls. Thus, the rise height of rising damp in thicker walls is higher than in thinner walls. Rising damp heights of 5.3 metres have been reported in the 400 year-old Church of San Bernardo in Rome due to the exceptional 4m thickness of its walls.1Hall Christopher, Hoff William D (2007) Rising damp: capillary rise dynamics in walls Proc. R. Soc. A.463 1871–1884 http://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2007.1855 2Massari, G. & Massari, I. (1993) Damp buildings, old and new. Rome, Italy: ICCROM. (English translation of Risanamento Igienico dei Locali Humidi. Milan, Italy: Ulrico Hoepli, 1985.) https://www.jstor.org/stable/1494064
  • NO ORIGINAL DPC: if the age of the building pre-dates the existence of DPCs, rising damp tends to be more severe than in buildings where a DPC exists.
  • HIGH WATER TABLE or clayey soil: the limited natural drainage and presence of more liquid moisture in the soil makes rising damp more active than in well draining sandy soils. 
  • PROXIMITY OF THE SEA: the excess salinity of nearby seas results in more severe rising damp cases and much faster degradation of the wall fabric due to the high content of salts. 
  • EXTREMELY SALTY SOIL: in specific regions of the country the soil has a very high mineral content. This manifests as white or yellow salt crystallization under the floor boards, visible upon underfloor inspection. The elevated salinity of the soil accelerates the development and severity of rising damp.
  • CEMENT PLASTERS or renders: in addition to slowing down evaporation, cement materials contain various additives - including several types of salts - which cause an ongoing salt migration from the cement into the masonry. The elevated salt concentration at the cement-wall interface leads to high moisture content and salt crystallization, contributing to the effects of rising damp, causing damages to the historic fabric.

Conservation-Friendly Rising Damp Solutions

Based on the above, for the conservation-friendly resolution of rising damp one can have several options. One should choose the solution one feels most comfortable with.

1. Replastering with Sacrificial Lime

In line with current conservation policies, one can can replaster the walls with a common air lime plaster. This tends to work best in relatively newer buildings with low levels of rising damp. This type of plaster is also called sacrificial plaster, which means that the plaster is expected to crumble off and last only a limited time, requiring re-plastering every few years.
Here is a typical case of replastering with sacrificial lime: a 400 year-old stone building. The salts carried into the building fabric by rising damp have destroyed the lime plastering in a short 4 years, as shown below. Therefore, this type of lime plastering has to be repeated every few years.

2. Adding a Salt-Resistant Lime Base Coat

As sacrificial lime plasters require ongoing replastering every few years due to the presence of salts, eliminating the problem of salts can increase the longevity of replastering significantly (about 10 times) without any downsides or negatives. This can be achieved by applying a salt-resistant lime base coat under the main lime coat protecting that from early decay. 

This technology originates from ancient Rome. The Roman engineers have developed special lime plasters for damp environments. Mixing the lime with volcanic sands and ashes (natural pozzolans) results in lime plasters that can withstand very high humidity and salinity. These lime plasters (also referred to as water limes in old textbooks) have been used for centuries in very damp environments such as Venice. Applying this Roman plaster (Rinzaffo MGN) under the main lime coat would act as a breathable salt filter, protecting the plastering from excess humidity and the destructive effect of salts. The salt-resistant Roman base coat does not affect the breathability of the fabric, being itself a breathable lime plaster. The video below demonstrates the use of this lime plaster.

3. Also Using a Magnetic DPC System

Although good quality breathable plastering systems can provide a dry, presentable surface for a long time, the moisture and salt accumulation in the masonry continues in the background behind the plaster. This aspect can be addressed by the non-invasive magnetic DPC system, an alternative to more invasive DPC solutions. This is the latest damp proof course technology that deals with rising damp by improving the breathability of the wall fabric. The magnetic DPC system can alone reduce the moisture content of the wall fabric, establishing a new, lower moisture equilibrium state in the walls.

This solution complements the replastering, reducing the moisture content inside the wall fabric which lime replastering can not address. From technical point of view, combining lime replastering with the magnetic DPC is the best overall solution.

Recommended Lime Plastering Schedule for Rising Damp

The recommended lime plastering schedule, that "ticks all boxes" - breathability, long life expectancy, high water and salt resistance, moisture control - consists of the application of the following 3 plaster coats:

  1. Base coat: the Rinzaffo MGN Roman salt-resistant lime base coat
  2. Main coat: a main lime plaster coat, which can be a regular or thermal lime coat
  3. Finishing coat (optional): a good quality lime finish

This concept is very similar to the current lime renovation concept, except it extends that by adding the Roman waterproof, salt-resistant base coat to the plastering schedule. This Roman coat does the "heavy lifting" in the background, protecting the other lime coats (the main and finishing coats) from premature decay from the combined effect of humidity and salts. Being a heritage-friendly material, it is extensively used in one of the most historic cities of the world - Venice - a World Heritage Site. 

The renovation concept is detailed below.

replastering old damp walls
Commonplace lime plastering
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The improved long-lasting lime plastering solution

Modern Non-Conservation-Friendly Approaches

Regardless of the chosen solution, in old buildings only a breathable approach should be taken when dealing with rising damp.

Modern non-breathable materials and solutions create long-term side effects, causing future - sometimes severe - dampness problems. Thus the use of cement platers, tanking and plastic membranes are considered non-building friendly solutions and as such these should be avoided in older buildings pre-dating the 1940s.

Today, virtually any renovation solution has breathable lime-based alternatives which do not have long-term shortcomings, are sympathetic to old buildings and restore the fabric's breathability making old buildings function as they were intended. 

References

  • 1
    Hall Christopher, Hoff William D (2007) Rising damp: capillary rise dynamics in walls Proc. R. Soc. A.463 1871–1884 http://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2007.1855
  • 2
    Massari, G. & Massari, I. (1993) Damp buildings, old and new. Rome, Italy: ICCROM. (English translation of Risanamento Igienico dei Locali Humidi. Milan, Italy: Ulrico Hoepli, 1985.) https://www.jstor.org/stable/1494064

References

Recommended Products

Here are the typical recommended materials / products for this solution. Other plaster variations are possible as we have different types of main coats (normal or thermal) and finishes (smoother, grainier, coloured etc.) depending on your needs or application. Please get in touch to discuss additional options.

Completed Projects

Here are some of our projects using this solution:

Awards & Nominations

This solution has won / been nominated for the following industry awards:

More Information

Here are some related pages with additional technical information, giving you a more in-depth understanding of this topic.

Photo Galleries

Here are some photos demonstrating this solution. Click on any image to open the photo gallery.

Showing items: 1 - 2 of 2 total.
Timber-frame Farmhouse - Full Refurbishment & Thermal Insulation

1600s timber-frame listed farmhouse undergoing full refurbishment from top to bottom addressing sympathetically many problems including: new roof, lime pointing, timber infill panels, thermal insulation, replastering, structural reinforcement with lime and lime floors – just to name the most important aspects of the project. 

Broken Down Slate DPCs

Here are some photos of disintegrated, broken down original slate DPC which have been frequently installed in old buildings in the Victorian period – a means to prevent and combat rising damp.

Videos

Here are some videos related to this solution. Please unmute the videos when playing them.

Showing videos: 1 - 6 of 11 total.

Any Questions? Need Technical Advice?

If you have any questions about a project, a problem, a solution, or any of our plasters - please get in touch.

We understand that each project is unique. Using the contact form below feel free to ask us any questions. Give us as much detail as you can about your project so we can get back to you with more relevant answers. 

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Testimonials

Here are some client testimonials:

cottage

We were recommended Core Conservation by some conservation professionals.

Following an initial consultation with an engineer, we installed the dehydration system into our Grade II listed Tudor cottage in October 2017. The Engineer returned only last week to evaluate changes to the severity of the rising damp in our walls since installation. After only 6 months there is a marked improvement in readings, some of which are 50% lower than those established at outset. We are very pleased with the findings and look forward to the next scheduled visit in 6 months’ time to learn of further improvement readings. Well done!

Kate S

Plaster Application

Here are some key application points about the application of each plaster, as well as links to the full application guides. Additional documents can be found on the individual plaster pages. 

Rinzaffo

rinzaffo category

Base, Waterproofing

  • Clean the masonry: the plaster must be applied on a cleaned and uniformly wet substrate. All crumbling and loose parts must be removed by brushing so the masonry is free of dust, salts and oils. If possible, also wash the walls with a pressure washer; this will clean and wet the walls in one go. Close larger holes with lime mortar and pieces of bricks.
  • Must be the first coat: the Rinzaffo MGN plaster must be the first coat on any wall. It should not be applied on top of other parge coats or plasters because when those fail the performance of the Roman base coat will also likely to be affected.
  • No salt-inhibitors nor PVA bonding agents should be used before the application of the plaster. The plaster bonds well on its own.
  • Masonry paints should be removed (which occasionally can be challenging) so the plaster can firmly adhere to the underlying stones or bricks. Remove at least 50% of the existing paint – the more is removed, the better.
  • Mixing: mix the material with clean tap water only without adding anything else (no other material or additive), until a homogenous, creamy-consistency mix is obtained. 
  • Wet the wall fabric abundantly before applying the plaster, as well as in-between each subsequent coat. Lime plasters need moisture as they set slowly in a damp environment. If the walls are already damp, there is no need to wait to become drier, you can proceed with the application of this plaster. 
  • Level uneven surface first: very uneven walls (e.g. stone walls or crumbling old brick walls) are recommended to be patched up and levelled first before the application of a continuous coat, to ensure the consistency and required thickness of the base coat.
  • Application: apply the plaster in 10 mm coats.
  • IMPORTANT: Respect the thickness: do not under-spec the material. Apply min 10 mm (1 coat) for above ground level walls. Apply min 20 mm thickness (in 2 coats) for underground or extremely damp or salty walls. If more than one coat is applied, embedding a 10 x 10 mm fibreglass mesh is recommended between the coats – a standard practice in the industry.
  • IMPORTANT: Close all pores, no matter how small. Treat and apply the plaster as a tanking-grade material. Attention should be paid to compact it on the wall closing off all pores, no matter how small, leaving no gaps or holes where salts or liquid water could come through. Once an area has been completed, recheck that here are no missed holes, not even small ones.

    The plaster application video below explains the concept in detail.

  • Light key: give the plaster a light key using a wet brush. Do not cut into the material with the edge of a trowel.
  • IMPORTANT: Dark patches. Allow the plaster to dry for 48 hours. Ideally, the whole surface should dry out uniformly to light brown, however you might notice some dark or damp-looking areas exhibiting surface condensation. Dark areas indicate insufficient thickness of the plaster in raport to the amount of moisture behind it. This occurs in areas where the underlying wall fabric is very damp, the intense evaporation causing surface condensation.
    The fix is easy: apply extra material over such dark areas increasing the thickness of the plaster, closing off all pores. The increased plaster volume dilutes the vapour flow allowing the surface to dry.
  • Additional coats can be applied in further 10 mm increments. Use an embedded fibreglass mesh for extra reinforcement over the recommended thickness.
  • Application conditions: ambient and wall temperatures must be between +5 to +30°C during application. Surfaces should be protected from rain and humidity until they have completely dried (approx. 3 – 10 days depending on weather conditions).
  • IMPORTANT: Please watch the plaster application video below before applying the material. Unmute the video if it plays without sound.

Calcina Bianca

  • Clean the masonry: the plaster must be applied on a cleaned and uniformly wet substrate. All crumbling and loose parts must be removed by brushing so the masonry is free of dust, salts and oils. If possible, also wash the walls with a pressure washer; this will clean and wet the walls in one go. Close larger holes with lime mortar and pieces of bricks.
  • Mixing: mix the material with clean tap water only without adding anything else (no other material or additive), until a homogenous, creamy-consistency mix is obtained. 
  • Recommended thickness: min recommended thickness for interior walls is 15 mm, for external walls is 20 mm.
  • Application: apply the plaster in 10 mm coats.
  • Additional coats can be applied in further 10 mm increments. Use an embedded fibreglass mesh for extra reinforcement over the recommended thickness.
  • Finish options: main lime coats can be optionally left without finishing. To have a finished surface any MGN finish can be applied: Calcina Fine MGN (white lime finish), Intonachino Arenino MGN (coloured lime finish) or Marmorino MGN (Venetian Marmorino finish).
  • Painting: as this is a breathable lime plaster, wall surfaces should be painted with a breathable mineral paint. Wallpapers and modern emulsion petrol-based paints, with no or limited breathability, should be avoided.
  • Application conditions: ambient and wall temperatures must be between +5 to +30°C during application. Surfaces should be protected from rain and humidity until they have completely dried (approx. 3 – 10 days depending on weather conditions).

Calcina Fine

calcina-fine-main-core-conservation

Finishing

  • Mixing: mix the material with clean tap water only without adding anything else (no other material or additive), until a homogenous, creamy-consistency mix is obtained. 
  • Recommended thickness of the finish: 3-4 mm. For best results, the finish should be applied in two “half-coats” of 2 mm each, with a fine 3-4 mm fibreglass mesh embedded in-between. The mesh makes the finish more flexible, minimizing the appearance of fine cracks.
  • Various textured finishes can be achieved, depending on the finishing technique used:
    • Coarse finish: by finishing the surface with a sponge or wooden trowel.
    • Smooth finish: by using a stainless steel trowel, compressing and smoothing the semi-dry surface, the sand granules are pushed into the material, resulting in a smooth finish.
    • Washed finish: by finishing the surface with a sponge trowel. After the surface has hardened, the surface is washed with water and blotted with a sponge to bring out the aggregate, its specific texture and colour.
  • Painting: as this is a breathable lime plaster, wall surfaces should be painted with a breathable mineral paint. Wallpapers and modern emulsion petrol-based paints, with no or limited breathability, should be avoided.
  • Application conditions: ambient and wall temperatures must be between +5 to +30°C during application. Surfaces should be protected from rain and humidity until they have completely dried (approx. 3 – 10 days depending on weather conditions).