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Solving Condensation and Mould Problems

How to Solve It?
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What is Condensation?

Condensation is the liquification of invisible water vapours present in the air in contact with cold surfaces.

Condensation is often associated with the growth of mould as the tiny liquid droplets (condensation droplets) on the surface provide bacteria the necessary "fuel" to thrive, resulting in mould growth.

Condensation and mould growth is a common seasonal problem in the UK, primarily affecting old buildings during the colder winter months between October to April. Condensation is generally not a problem during the warmer summer months.

What Causes Condensation?

Condensation occurs when warm humid air comes in contact with cold surfaces, mostly external walls. Water vapours in the air are slowed down near cold surfaces then attracted to them, making vapours to accumulate and liquefy on cold surfaces.

The 2 key variables determining the extent of condensation are:

  1. The surface temperature of the wall fabric: colder walls trap more of the available moisture, causing more condensation.
  2. The indoor humidity: higher internal humidity means more available moisture to liquefy or condense.

This can be represented graphically on the psychometric or condensation chart. The chart has 2 axis:

  • The horizontal axis: shows the temperature, from cold to warm.
  • The vertical axis: shows the humidity, from dry to moist.

Both of these variables can cause condensation.

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Condensation chart showing the dynamic interaction of temperature and humidity

Of these two variables, low surface temperatures or cold wall surfaces - usually attributed to insufficient heating - are considered the main cause of condensation. However, this is only half of the story - there is more to it.

In our experience, especially in old buildings with solid walls, the other variable, high indoor humidity, tends to be a more important factor in the formation of condensation - something that is frequently overlooked or misdiagnosed. To better understand the relation of these two variables and how they impact old buildings, let's look at them in a bit more detail.

1. Cold Wall Surfaces

External walls can be cooled down by the external environment, leading to condensation problems driven by low temperatures.

But which part of the walls is the coldest and thus most susceptible to condensation?

Long-term measurements done with embedded micro-sensors, however, revealed an interesting fact: the core of old walls was warmer in wintertime than the surface. Although this might sound counter-intuitive at first sight, it does make sense as old walls also accumulate and store some heat (thermal mass) keeping the core of the walls warmer than the environment. What cools down wall surfaces is the ongoing evaporation, making evaporative wall surfaces susceptible to condensation.

This condensation is common in newer buildings, typically built from the 1930s onward, often with external cement render, internally decorated with modern cement plaster, modern emulsion paint or wallpaper.

mould-modern-core-conservation
Condensation and mould in a 1940s building

And this leads us to the second variable... high indoor humidity.

2. High Indoor Humidity

What can cause high indoor humidity? In addition to man-made moisture, evaporating damp walls and floors are one of the largest sources of indoor humidity in old buildings. How much water can old walls absorb from the ground, store and evaporate out? Lots! These calculations from a British scientific research paper will give you an idea.

Those solid walls standing on the damp soil connected to the water table are constantly absorbing moisture from the ground (rising damp), then evaporating it out into the internal space. This results in constant high indoor humidity in the building, which condenses on colder wall surfaces. Hence condensation can also occur as a consequence and accompanying phenomenon of rising damp. The lack of a damp proof course makes old buildings susceptible to rising damp, resulting in (secondary) condensation as a result of high indoor humidity.

This condensation can often present in several hundred year-old buildings, which despite being built with lime (breathable) and being "leaky" (not airtight by design), can have very high indoor humidity as a result of rising damp. This effect of rising damp - high vapour content indoors leading to condensation - are often overlooked or misdiagnosed.

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Condensation in an old listed building due to excess indoor humidity

The two leading causes of condensation - cold walls and high indoor humidity - can overlap and be present at the same time and both contribute to condensation problems - so good diagnosis is essential for the full resolution of the problem.

Diagnosing Condensation Problems

When diagnosing condensation and mould problems it is important to do both temperature and humidity measurements on the property to establish what is the primary cause of condensation: cold walls, high indoor humidity or both. High indoor humidity can indicate the presence of some underlying hidden moisture source in the building, which can be rising damp, complete lack of ventilation or something else - there is always a cause behind it that needs to be found.

Just installing robotically some extra ventilation in the building to lower the high humidity won't necessarily solve the problem as the root cause of the problem has not been found.

Here is a simple test one can do to diagnose whether there is an underling moisture problem in the building. Run a dehumidifier in the building or in the affected room(s). If the dehumidifier consistently extracts large amounts of water from the air - typically half litre or more per day - that's a strong indication that there is a hidden moisture source present somewhere in the building that keeps generating the excess humidity the dehumidifier collects.

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Dehumidifier in an old farm building extracting a lot of moisture on a daily basis

Additional tests can be done by taking absolute humidity readings:, this usually require specialist instrumentation. One often finds that when a hidden moisture source is present in the building, the absolute moisture inside the building is higher than outside. This, in plain English means that there is higher humidity inside the building than outside; or the air inside the building is more saturated than outside. This is not a good thing.

The differences between the absolute and relative humidity is explained in detail here. 

Solving Condensation Problems

Although the theory behind why condensation occurs is simple, solving it or eradicating it can sometimes be more complicated.

One is generally recommended to start with simpler actions and gradually progresses towards more complex interventions until the problem is eliminated. Some of these simpler actions one can take can be:

  • Improving ventilation: either of local areas by pulling the furniture away from the walls, or of the whole building by opening the trickle vents or installing a positive pressure ventilation system.
  • Improving the heating in the building. One word of caution about heating: although heating is important, it usually does not solve condensation (or dampness) problems but only hides them. Heating warms up the air the building. Warm air can store a lot more moisture than cold air. So with heating moisture moves from the solid surfaces into the air, apparently solving the condensation while as long as the heating is on. Once the heating is turned off or temperatures drop, the moisture from the air condenses back onto solid surfaces and the problem comes back. To solve the problem, the underlying (often hidden) moisture sources must be found and eliminated. 

If these do not resolve the problem, more complex actions are required that often need professional help. Some of these can include:

  • Finding and eliminating hidden moisture sources: diagnosing, finding and eliminating any underlying hidden moisture sources affecting the building - with particular attention to correctly diagnose rising damp then solve it. Old floors and evaporating wall surfaces can be very significant (hidden) sources of moisture that can cause considerable condensation.
  • Better thermal insulation: Improving the thermal insulation of the building, either by thermal plastering or plasterboarding. Lime thermal insulation is one of the best solutions for old buildings as it's breathable, traditional looking and works well against condensation. The Termorasante Aerogel MGN lime-aerogel plaster, thanks to its outstanding thermal insulation works incredibly well in any building, old or new, offers an outstanding solution against condensation problems in a slim, space-saving insulation coat.

    The thermal insulation concept is detailed below.
internal lime thermal insulation
Internal thermal insulation
external lime thermal insulation
External thermal insulation

Recommended Products

Here are the typical recommended materials / products for this solution. Other plaster variations are possible as we have different types of main coats (normal or thermal) and finishes (smoother, grainier, coloured etc.) depending on your needs or application. Please get in touch to discuss additional options.

More Information

Here are some related pages with additional technical information, giving you a more in-depth understanding of this topic.

Photo Galleries

Here are some photos demonstrating this solution. Click on any image to open the photo gallery.

1 found
Farm House Conversion And Thermal Insulation

This old farm house has been converted to living accommodation and thermally insulated using Roman lime materials in a sympathetic way.

Videos

Here are some videos related to this solution. Please unmute the videos when playing them.

Showing videos: 1 - 2 of 2 total.

Any Questions? Need Technical Advice?

If you have any questions about a project, a problem, a solution, or any of our plasters - please get in touch.

We understand that each project is unique. Using the contact form below feel free to ask us any questions. Give us as much detail as you can about your project so we can get back to you with more relevant answers. 

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Plaster Application

Here are some key application points about the application of each plaster, as well as links to the full application guides. Additional documents can be found on the individual plaster pages. 

Rinzaffo

rinzaffo category

Base, Waterproofing

  • Clean the masonry: the plaster must be applied on a cleaned and uniformly wet substrate. All crumbling and loose parts must be removed by brushing so the masonry is free of dust, salts and oils. If possible, also wash the walls with a pressure washer; this will clean and wet the walls in one go. Close larger holes with lime mortar and pieces of bricks.
  • Must be the first coat: the Rinzaffo MGN plaster must be the first coat on any wall. It should not be applied on top of other parge coats or plasters because when those fail the performance of the Roman base coat will also likely to be affected.
  • No salt-inhibitors nor PVA bonding agents should be used before the application of the plaster. The plaster bonds well on its own.
  • Masonry paints should be removed (which occasionally can be challenging) so the plaster can firmly adhere to the underlying stones or bricks. Remove at least 50% of the existing paint – the more is removed, the better.
  • Mixing: mix the material with clean tap water only without adding anything else (no other material or additive), until a homogenous, creamy-consistency mix is obtained. 
  • Wet the wall fabric abundantly before applying the plaster, as well as in-between each subsequent coat. Lime plasters need moisture as they set slowly in a damp environment. If the walls are already damp, there is no need to wait to become drier, you can proceed with the application of this plaster. 
  • Level uneven surface first: very uneven walls (e.g. stone walls or crumbling old brick walls) are recommended to be patched up and levelled first before the application of a continuous coat, to ensure the consistency and required thickness of the base coat.
  • Application: apply the plaster in 10 mm coats.
  • IMPORTANT: Respect the thickness: do not under-spec the material. Apply min 10 mm (1 coat) for above ground level walls. Apply min 20 mm thickness (in 2 coats) for underground or extremely damp or salty walls. If more than one coat is applied, embedding a 10 x 10 mm fibreglass mesh is recommended between the coats – a standard practice in the industry.
  • IMPORTANT: Close all pores, no matter how small. Treat and apply the plaster as a tanking-grade material. Attention should be paid to compact it on the wall closing off all pores, no matter how small, leaving no gaps or holes where salts or liquid water could come through. Once an area has been completed, recheck that here are no missed holes, not even small ones.

    The plaster application video below explains the concept in detail.

  • Light key: give the plaster a light key using a wet brush. Do not cut into the material with the edge of a trowel.
  • IMPORTANT: Dark patches. Allow the plaster to dry for 48 hours. Ideally, the whole surface should dry out uniformly to light brown, however you might notice some dark or damp-looking areas exhibiting surface condensation. Dark areas indicate insufficient thickness of the plaster in raport to the amount of moisture behind it. This occurs in areas where the underlying wall fabric is very damp, the intense evaporation causing surface condensation.
    The fix is easy: apply extra material over such dark areas increasing the thickness of the plaster, closing off all pores. The increased plaster volume dilutes the vapour flow allowing the surface to dry.
  • Additional coats can be applied in further 10 mm increments. Use an embedded fibreglass mesh for extra reinforcement over the recommended thickness.
  • Application conditions: ambient and wall temperatures must be between +5 to +30°C during application. Surfaces should be protected from rain and humidity until they have completely dried (approx. 3 – 10 days depending on weather conditions).
  • IMPORTANT: Please watch the plaster application video below before applying the material. Unmute the video if it plays without sound.

TermoRasante AeroGel

  • Mixing: mix the material with clean tap water only without adding anything else (no other material or additive), until a homogenous, creamy-consistency mix is obtained. 
  • Application: apply the plaster with a stainless-steel trowel in a 5-10 mm coat, just spreading and levelling it, without pushing the material around too much. Apply subsequent coats in further 10 mm passes. 
  • Finishing: for better mechanical protection thermal plasters should be finished with a dedicated finish (e.g. Megastuk MGN) – these are mechanically more resilient, longer lasting than ordinary lime putty finishes.
  • Painting: as this is a breathable lime plaster, wall surfaces should be painted with a breathable mineral paint. Wallpapers and modern emulsion petrol-based paints, with no or limited breathability, should be avoided.
  • Application conditions: ambient and wall temperatures must be between +5 to +30°C during application. Surfaces should be protected from rain and humidity until they have completely dried (approx. 3 – 10 days depending on weather conditions).
  • IMPORTANT: Please watch the plaster application video below before applying the material. Unmute the video if it plays without sound.

Termointonaco 2020

  • Clean the masonry: the plaster must be applied on a cleaned and uniformly wet substrate. All crumbling and loose parts must be removed by brushing so the masonry is free of dust, salts and oils. If possible, also wash the walls with a pressure washer; this will clean and wet the walls in one go. Close larger holes with lime mortar and pieces of bricks.
  • Mixing: mix the material with clean tap water only without adding anything else (no other material or additive), until a homogenous, creamy-consistency mix is obtained. 
  • Application: apply the thermal plaster in (up to) 20 mm coats in one pass, without compressing the material. Wait for the previous coat to harden (2-3 days depending on ambient conditions) before applying the next coat. The last layer must be levelled to make the application of the finishing easier.
  • Drying time: as porous thermal plasters take up significantly more water than denser “regular” plasters, they have proportionally longer drying times. Thus, before applying the finish, it is advisable to let the thermal insulation dry for 15-20 days.
  • Finishing: for better mechanical protection thermal plasters should be finished with a dedicated finish (e.g. Megastuk MGN) – these are mechanically more resilient, longer lasting than ordinary lime putty finishes.
  • Painting: as this is a breathable lime plaster, wall surfaces should be painted with a breathable mineral paint. Wallpapers and modern emulsion petrol-based paints, with no or limited breathability, should be avoided.
  • Application conditions: ambient and wall temperatures must be between +5 to +30°C during application. Surfaces should be protected from rain and humidity until they have completely dried (approx. 3 – 10 days depending on weather conditions).